Sunday, January 29, 2006

Hiking in Seoul

I’ve been waiting to write this one because I have so much to say about it. I have only gone hiking 6 times, but have made some interesting observations that I’m anxious to share.

First of all, let me say that Seoul is an incredible place for hiking. Surprising for a city of over 10 million. But it is surrounded by mountains, and has about 7 of its own peaks rising up in various parts of the city. Imagine if the hills of San Francisco grew to be small mountains, and you have Seoul. So there are dozens and dozens of places to do day hikes all over and around the city. And if you make it to the top, you get spectacular views of the city itself.

Here is a view of Seoul Tower atop Namsan, the most well known landmark in Seoul.

Secondly, I should say that Koreans love hiking. Actually, they love exercise in general. Really, Koreans are extremely active people - hiking, biking, walking, jogging, rollerblading, windsurfing weightlifting, tennis, golf, volleyball, soccer, basketball, TaeKwonDo, Tai Chi, Yoga, you name it. So as a result, any area for outdoors activity in or near the city is generally crowded, with people of all ages. At peak times, the trails actually have TRAFFIC. At normal times, you can at least be sure you will never be alone for long. And, surprisingly, its wonderful.

Something I find funny here is that I readily tolerate certain things that I would never tolerate at home. In California, I was always tremedously annoyed by too many other people on my trails, but here, I don't mind it at all. Maybe I just find Americans more irritating, or maybe its because I pretty much don't have a choice about it in Seoul, but either way, the crowds on the trails don't bother me so far.

Ok, so one of the most amusing things I’ve noticed is that Koreans are some of the world’s most “geared-out” people. Meaning, they have a lot of hiking gear! I always figured Americans took the cake on this on, but I was waaaay wrong. REI step aside – the Koreans have the coolest gear I have seen. And you know the old “they all look alike to me” joke? Well, Koreans all look the same when they are hiking, because they are wearing the SAME THINGS. I call it the Korean Hiking Uniform. It usually consists of black hiking pants, a long sleeve high-tec sweat-absorbing top in a limited number of colors, a hiking vest, a hiking hat (often a visor), very nice hiking boots, gloves, a collapsable hiking stick, a towel or bandana, and a backpack full or even more gear and a picnic lunch.

You can pick them out in any crowd – you KNOW the people who are on their way to go hiking. And on the subway heading to the outlying hiking areas, they become more numerous as you get closer, until eventually, everyone on the train is wearing the Uniform. And if you don’t know how to get to the trails, its mighty convenient to just follow them. Before you go to the trails, you usually have to do a bit of city street walking first. Often, this area is lined with shops, stalls and carts selling pre and post-hike meals, trail picnic food, alcohol, and of course, hiking gear. This is the place where everyone stops to fuel up before hitting the trails, and to refuel when they come down. And if you forgot your hiking stick, no worries!

Hiking ware for sale on the road up to Dobongsan.
A vendor selling pigs feet, a popular trail snack.

Two women fuel up with snacks and makkoli.

The best thing is that Koreans, already being tremendously friendly people, seem to be at their friendliest when they are hiking. I guess fresh mountain air does that to people. Everybody smiles, the children play, people are laughing and enjoying themselves all around you. Perhaps that is a major reason why the crowds don’t bother me.

And often, when they see foreigners, they invite them to join their picnics and share everything they have. It’s happened to me 3 out of the 6 times I have gone hiking. Doesn’t matter if they don’t speak English and you don’t speak Korean, they just want you to enjoy their picnic with them. And the picnics are plentiful — kimchi, dried fish strips, roasted pigs feet, fruit, tofu, thermos of piping hot coffee, and of course, Soju or Makkoli – two traditional Korean wines. Essential hiking fare.

Matt and I with a friendly group we met at Dobongsan.

And it’s usually not necessary to carry much water because almost every trail has several fresh water springs that you can stop and have a drink or fill up your bottle. Complete with long handled dipping cups that everyone shares!


Another cool thing is that most
hiking areas around here are dotted with Buddhist temples – some big and elaborate, some small and subtle. If you want to stop hiking to meditate or pray, the opportunity is there. And Buddhist temples are usually beautiful, with flowers and elaborate paintings and carvings.

A temple on the way up Suraksan.

The entrance to a temple at Dobongsan. A woman checks on her dried pumpkin slices outside a temple at Dobongsan.

Some adorable figurines outside a temple at Dobongsan.
A traditional carved wooden fish at Suraksan.
And one more cool thing about hiking in Korea – you often find outdoor “gyms” alongside the trail, with simple metal workout equipment should you want to do some spot training while you are hiking. I personally think this is a brilliant idea – being someone who despises indoor gyms.

Hikers reach the top of Suraksan.

Military installations atop the mountains remind you that you are not far from the world's most heavily fortified border.
Me loving the fall colors at Dobongsan. Photo by Matt.
A very cute family poses in front of the Buddha at Dobongsan.
This little guy was having a blast with his balloon and the big leaves.
The creek at Dobongsan.
Gorgeous fall color at Dobongsan.

At the time I am posting this, it has been far too long since I have gone hiking. And I miss it! Being in the crowded city is starting to wear on me, but it's just been too cold for me to want to spend the day outside. It has gotten a bit warmer, so hopefully I will make it out tomorrow.






















1 Comments:

Blogger theturninggate said...

The uniform is omnipresent, but you've forgotten to mention my favorite hikers; or maybe you just haven't seen them yet? I'm talking about the men that hike in business suits, the women who hike in skirts, dresses and high-heels. They certainly aren't as common as those decked out with hiking gear, but there are plenty of them still. You're bound to run into them eventually, and I hope you have your camera ready when you do. They're a hoot!

Sunday, February 05, 2006

 

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