Saturday, October 28, 2006

Oh, Sweet Sea Level

For once, I am actually finding time to do this!

At the moment I'm in Chengdu, China, waiting to catch an overnight train that will eventually end me up in Lijiang. This morning I went to see the Giant Pandas at their cozy little research base nearby, and was amazed at how much efforts people put into taking care of animals when they want too. What is it about the panda that humans love so much, enough to devote huge amounts of money and effort to saving it? And much of this conservation effort is sponsered by the Chinese government, the same people that have been slowly trying to erradicate Tibetan culture just up from here in the mountains. It's weird, there is more sympathy for the pandas than for the Tibetans. The Tibetans just got the shitty luck of inhabiting what happens to be a very valuable and very strategic place on the Asian continent. And they just aren't as cute and cuddly as the pandas either.

And while I'm on the subject of drastic contrasts here in China....just yesterday I woke up in Lhasa, where I had spent 5 days rubbing shoulders with devote Buddhist pilgrims in monasterys that smelled of incense and yak butter, and by evening time I find myself in a bar in Chengdu watching a sweaty man wearing a poor imitation of an Elvis costume gyrating on stage surrounded by scantily clad women. Wow. China.

Visiting Tibet was an eye opening experience. I realized that I had a LOT of misconceptions about the place and the people, and once again, my opinions have been changed after learning so much more. I still have a lot of sympathy for what has happened to Tibetans, but my image of them has been altered a lot. Not in a positive or negative way, I just have a much more complete understanding.

I'm in China for about another week, which I will spend in the Yunnan province trying to escape the cities and the smog (it is disgustingly polluted in almost every place I've been). Then I'll head to Vietnam around November 5th to meet up with my friend Raj. I've enjoyed traveling alone for the most part, but it will be nice to have a default partner in crime (and shopping).

My train awaits....

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Ni Hao from Beijing

"He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man." -- Mao Zedong

I am proud to announce that I am now a true man. Horray!

Beijing is an insane city and I am damn glad I am going to be leaving today. It's absolutely essential in terms of cultural and historical importance, but damn, this place can be maddening to travel in. It's immense in size, crowded, noisy, smelly, and really poorly set up for tourist. I alter between reveling in the bliss of traveling to fantastic places, absolutely despising Beijing, and reminding myself that the world does not exist solely for the purpose of my travel. It's that last one that is the key to sanity in Beijing.

That being said, this place is amazing. So diverse, fascinating, full of energy....and the people are wonderfully friendly. I have really enjoyed it for sure.

I've seen almost everything I want to see here, except the preserved body of Mao. I wanted to see him, but the viewing hours are short and the lines are long. I had to pass in the end. I'm sure he would understand.

And in about an hour, I'm off to Xi'an.

Until then.....

Monday, October 09, 2006

Things in Hong Kong that Rock My World

*$1 fresh juice stands with every fruit and veggie you can imagine

*Foolproof public transportation

*Breakfast Set B at the Macau Restaurant

*Good signage telling me where to go

*Sharing tables with strangers who I don't have to talk to

*Free internet with purchase of drink

Foiled Again!

After the original Visa debacle (long story, details available being withheld for security reasons), I have been foiled yet again in my travel plans. Damn these governments and their regulations.

Macau -- a very small semi-autonomous region of China -- is close enough to Hong Kong to take a day trip, so that's where I was going to go today. But you need a passport to get there. And my passport is at the Visa office until 6:00 today. So I guess I'm not going to Macau. Too bad, I was excited about it. It used to be a Portugese colony, until very recently in fact, which I think would make for a pretty interesting cultural blend and some damn good food. But whatever, I'm stuck in Hong Kong for another day. Tough life, huh? :-)

Today I....

Saw the world's largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha.

Rode the world's longest escalator.

Ate dumplings stuffed with fresh tomatoes and egg.

Wrote a blog entry from a subway station.

(If you can guess from the clues above, I'm not in Beijing. But where?)

Thursday, October 05, 2006

How do you say "See you later" in Chinese?

It's ten to ten here in San Jose and I am just about ready to leave. After driving to San Francisco and enduring airport check-in and security, I will hop on a plane bound for Beijing China, where I will be for about 12 hours. I have a direct flight, and I arrive around 5 p.m. My hostel is already reserved and the directions are written in my notebook. I will be luckily if I get any real sleep on the plane and I expect to arrive in China feeling exhausted and overwhelmed. I will be by myself, with 4 months ahead of me, during which the only thing I really HAVE to do is make it to Singapore by February 8th to fly home. Other than that, anything is possible.

How am I feeling? I can't really even say right now, except that I'm much more subdued that I feel like I should be. This is the biggest trip I've ever taken and I've been planning it for almost a year now. I'm totally excited and not wanting to leave at the same time.

Wish me luck :-)

Loose itinerary:

October: China, Maybe Seoul, Maybe Tibet
November: Vietman, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand
December: India to meet up with Raj
January: Malaysia and Singapore, Maybe Indonesia

I'll write a post every now and then to say where I am. Please send me emails, they make me happy and less homesick. I will try to write whenever I can.

And, I'm off!

Sunday, October 01, 2006

Thoughts from 35,000 feet


Yo La Tengo is the best airplane sleeping music in the world. I never sleep on planes, yet it put me into a lovely dozing trance for about 6 songs. Nice.

I’m writing this on the plane back from Kaua’i, some 35,000 miles above the Pacific. I’m in one of those awful seats that don’t lean back, and Andrea is about 5 rows in front of me so I have no one to talk to. I’m not hungry anymore, but I am tired and I’m really dreading my return to San Jose. Why? Have you ever been to San Jose? Have you ever been to Kaua’i? Doesn’t matter if you haven’t, I’m sure it’s pretty obvious.

Not to mention the fact that the next 5 days are pretty much going to suck. I’m trying to not be so pessimistic about it, but …arg. I have so much to do before I leave. Most of it tedious errands, chores, unpacking, packing, blah blah blah. I’m excited about the trip, but the actual leaving is always tough. The stress of making sure I’m really prepared, and the saying goodbye to everyone again. At least this time it’s only 4 months. Not nearly as long as a year, but still long enough to make leaving a little sad.

The three weeks at home were good for me…allowed me to settle my brain and body a bit, and to see everyone before I leave again. It’s funny, I’ve become the crazy globetrotter amongst my friends and family. Which is cool, I like being “that person.” I like watching people’s faces when I say I am going to fly over to India from Bangkok to meet up with a friend for Christmas….it takes a second to process, but then they get this look of disbelief and amazement and stop me, saying, “You’re gonna do what?!?” You know, just fly over to India, hang out there for awhile. I can hardly believe it myself, but I’m doing it.

So how did I get so lucky to spend a week in Kaua’i? I guess I need to backtrack here….my best friend Andrea’s parents, Kathy and Robert, recently bought a timeshare at the Waiohai Marriott. They had some extra space, so Andrea invited me to come along. When she first invited me, I actually was indecisive about it – I was not sure if I wanted to push back my other trip any further, and not sure if I could spend the money on another plane ticket. I was actually going to pass it up, but then I came to my senses…a week in Kaua’i with my best friend and her family? After a year away from home in a big inland urban city, how could I pass that up? And I’m tremendously glad I went too. We had a fabulous time.

Some good news I have is that the skin tone on my upper arms has evened out, and as I suspected, I just needed to get a little sun. The entire year in Korea, I think I must have been in actual sunshine for a total of 3 hours, by a generous estimate. Which is kind of the inverse of California, where I end up with a tan that lasts through the winter without even trying. California girl was a little bit dismayed to find out that the skin on her upper arms turns to a splotchy red color when she is out of the sun for too long. But a week on the island fixed that.

I’m also happy to say that Hawaii has been redeemed for me. Huh? Redeemed? Yes. I actually was not all that fond of Hawaii before, because I had only been to Oahu, which I just wasn’t crazy about. Too touristy, too developed, too full of cheesy people out to get wasted and laid. All the beauty of the island and the Hawaiian culture was ruined for me when I spent time in Waikiki. But Kaua’i is a whole world apart from Oahu. It is small, mostly undeveloped, slow paced, friendly, and absolutely beautiful. And dragging ourselves away from there was really, really hard. I’ve felt like crying all morning because I don’t want to go.

I’ll let the pictures do the talking on this one….(well, most of it.)

This is what coffee looks like before it is picked.
Getting wired at the Kaua'i Coffee Plantation.
Andrea, Bob and Kathy at the scenic overlook

A cooperative lizard posed for me while we were hiking.
The view of the Eastern side of Kaua'i, seen from the top of the Sleeping Giant.
Sunset out the front door of our villa.
Essential Hawaiian shave ice, in Mango and Passionfruit flavor.

One of the funnest things we did was ATV riding...now I want an ATV!

"What's wrong with this damn helmet?"
Bob in front of the fields where Jurassic Park was filmed, along with many other films.
There's Kathy in her Mudbug.
Me, getting dirty.
Our tour group at the end of the ride, filthy, tired, and grinning from ear to ear.
This is the pool where we stayed, looking out over the beach....sigh....

Another great activity we did on our last day - a cruise to see the Na Pali coast. The Na Pali coast is on the West side of the island, and can only be seen by boat or helicopter. The scenery is stunning, a must-see if you ever go to Kaua'i.




A slightly nauseous Andrea gets some love from the crew.We were lucky because we got to see dolphins, which they usually don't see on the morning tour.
Sunset over Ni'ihau, the Forbidden Island.
More fun with Pierre, crew member, artist, and all around cool dude.
Captain Dave, who used to live in Fremont, but gave it up to be a pirate and never looked back.
Darkness falls over Port Allen. (Should have had a tripod for this one.)