The Trip Begins

Alright, here we go! Because so many people have said they can't wait to see pics and here about the trip, I am finding time in my crazy schedule of unemployment to blog about the trip! I was gone for a whole month, the longest car-based trip I've ever taken, and it was amazing from beginning to end.

Ok, all of you who know the Northwest, a quiz:

Where is this? (hint: Think license plates and quarters)


Give up? It's Crater Lake! See that gray blanket of haze behind the trees? Yes, that's Crater Lake back there. No matter how many pictures you have seen of it, you probably have not seen pics like these - I was there at a very inopportune time. Myself and many others were consoling ourselves by the fact that at least OUR pictures will be unique.

When I visited, 2 huge fires were burning in the forests to the west, leaving the whole Rogue Valley blanketed in haze. So the lake, famous for its intense blue color, was not even visible the day I arrived.

Can you find the Phantom Ship in this picture? (You can barely make it out between the trees.)


Here is the same view, taken the next day when the smoke had cleared a bit. But normally, it is much more clear than this.

But in spite of the obscured views, Crater Lake was still amazing. It is definitely worth a visit, and for those of you that live in the Bay Area, it is really not that far away. If you haven't gone, GO! (But wait for summer, it's closed now) But be sure to check up on the local forest fires first...

This was about the clearest view that I got.

Crater Lake was created about 7,700 years ago, when Mount Mazama erupted, leaving a huge caldera (cauldron) where there used to be a huge mountain peak. Scientists believe that the eruption was about 750 times more powerful than Mt. St. Helens in 1980, spreading ash over 8 states and 3 of the Canadian provinces. Over the next several hundred years, rain and snow runoff filled it up, leaving us with the beautiful lake that now graces the license plates of many proud Oregonians, as well as the Oregon quarter.


The natives in the area had considered it a sacred spot for many years, but it wasn't seen by white folk until 1853, who creatively named it "Deep Blue Lake." But the first people to see it were so caught up with gold fever that it wasn't until much later that it was noticed again. A number of people eventually recognized it's distinct beauty and began pushing to get it designated as a national park. One interesting tactic they used was to stock it with fish, thereby adding scores of local fisherman to the ranks of those who wished to see the area preserved. (Today, only two of those fish species remain.) Their efforts were successful, and Crater Lake National Park was created in 1902.

As a body of water, Crater Lake holds a few special distinctions. It has no inlet and no outlet. As a result, it remains one of the most pure and clearest lakes in the world, with visibility measured down to 40 meters and an intense blue color that, unfortunately, I didn't get to really see through the haze. With its deepest point at about 1900 feet, it is also one of the deepest lakes in the world. The water level remains pretty much constant, with rainfall and snow melt balanced out by evaporation and seepage.

Wizard Island

Later lava eruptions created Wizard Island inside the caldera. During the summer months, they run boat trips to the island, and you can hike up to the top. Unfortunately I was too late in the year for this, but imagine it must be stunning. I did however, hike Cleetwood Cove, the only trail that goes down to the water. Swimming is allowed, but the water is far too cold for most sane people.

Wizard Island, make a bit more clear with the help of Photoshop.

At the edge of the water inside Crater Lake.

Mount Garfield, one of the highest points around the rim, obscured by smoke.

A portion of the 33-mile Rim Drive around Crater Lake National Park.

The landscape around Crater Lake is weird and other worldly, due to its volcanic nature. On the day I arrived, I felt disoriented, unable to clear my ears or really get my balance. I learned later that many people feel that way when visiting, probably as a result of the altitude and volcanic energy of the place. The most impressive of the volcanic souvenirs are the Pinnacles, the remnants of fumaroles exposed by years of erosion.

Almost hard to tell which are fumaroles and which are trees!

One the final day of my visit, I climbed to the top of the Watchman, one of the high peaks around the rim. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mount Shasta, but I could barely see the local mountain peaks. The Watchman is still used as a fire watch post, and there was a firefighter on duty that day. Her job was to scan the surrounding forests for whisps of smoke indicating new outbreaks of fire. She explained to me that smoldering embers started by lightening strikes can remain dormant in a moist forest for weeks on end, and suddenly ignite when the conditions get dry enough. She also gave me the lowdown on the current fires - they were started by lightening, had been burning for 2 weeks, and there were over 1,000 people deployed to fight them.

A firefighter with the National Park Service. A twisted ankle had landed her watchtower duty for the day.

Looking East from Watchman peak, you can see the haze of 2 raging forest fires.

This bird is some type of woodpecker, but I called them "Little Fuckers." They will literally steal the food out of your hand if you aren't looking. One actually bit my finger after I had finished my sandwich!

Crater Lake was so awesome that it started me on a National Park kick, and was the first of FIVE national parks/monuments I visited over the next month - Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Olympic National Park and Redwoods National Park came later. I will post them all soon!